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I thought that I knew what to expect in Spain, but the relaxed atmosphere is something else.  There is no hurry, period.  The attitude is hakuna matata (“no worries” in Swahili, Lion King).  Spain identifies with the “work to live” rather than the “live to work” existence.  This may be why the economy has been in the tank.

My first sign that the lifestyle was different was when we arrived in Barcelona in late August and rented a car for our road trip across the country.  When I parked on the street near our apartment and attempted to pay, I found that the meter’s everyday digital reading had changed to (translated) “not operational during vacation period.”  Everyone truly takes a break during late August, if not late September.  In fact, summer hours for banks continue through September.

Everyone knows about the long lunches, which never begin until 1:30 or 2:00.  Two hours is probably an average duration and the check never ever comes until you ask for it.  A glass or two of wine or beer, and sometimes a digestif, followed by coffee, are more the norm at the midday meal than not.  My Spanish instructor was amazed when I told him I usually eat lunch at my desk; and “no siesta?” he inquired.  The 1:00-4:00 lunch followed by siesta is still considered the typical afternoon in Spain, but it is not followed by all.  And many stores do remain open.

Coffee is never taken to go.  If you go out for a coffee, you drink it at the café.  There are plenty of Starbucks here and they may indeed offer to go cups, which would be unique here; still, I have not seen them on the street, and I don’t plan to visit Starbucks.

It is not considered polite to eat or drink on the street, but of course cigarettes are fine.

Traffic lights are long.  You seem to wait and wait, but no one complains.  People are not in a rush here.

I have noticed a nominal amount of jaywalking.  Once again, no one is in a hurry.

One afternoon, while walking home from school, I did an informal visual survey of cell phone use.  I counted 50 people walking on the street in the 20-50 year old range and less than 20% were holding their cell phones, whether speaking, texting, or just holding.  I imagine the number is much higher in the states.  Sure, as in the U.S., the teenagers sit around in groups with their phones in constant use, but the adult population may not need to be connected at every moment during the trip to and from work, home, shopping, etc.  Note:  if you include people holding cigarettes as well as phones, the number rises to well above 50%.

Is this all about living for the moment?  By enjoying the long lunch, the slower walk, the dangerous cigarette, the email that can wait, the reduced work hours (and perhaps related income), is there more happiness right now?  And is there less happiness later?

The Don Quijote Spanish Language School is treating me well; I am learning quickly and enjoying the life of a student, even doing my homework.  Still, I have yet to join my classmates late night at the clubs, but at least they invite me (knowing I won’t show up).  In this my fourth of six weeks, my classmates are from Norway, Brazil, Switzerland, Germany, and Finland.  Each week, some new students join and others leave, most staying about 2 weeks with the goal a combination of furthering language skills and fraternizing.  I have yet to be in class with an American at this point, although most of the chatter in the hallways is in English, certainly the common language among students here.

Today we learned the word, “aburrido”, which means “boring”.  Most vocabulary has no commonality and takes significant repetition for it to stick, yet certain words are easy due to English similarity (“perfecto”, “correcto”, “difícil”).  Aburrido clicked from the beginning as I thought of opposites; burritos are anything but boring!

After class today, I felt like working on my speaking ability and all was going well with lunch at a café counter coming to me exactly as I thought it was ordered; nice job Will (pat self on the back).  Then I made my way to the gym, a bit too proud of my language skills.  I asked someone, “dónde están las toallas” (where are the towels?), likely with a perfectly incorrect accent, and he responded with, “they are upstairs”.

La Liga

One way to learn the geography (and culture) of Spain is to become familiar with the teams in La Liga (Liga Nacional de Fútbol Professional), the Spanish fútbol league.  The Primera División includes 20 teams, with the bottom three annually relegated to the Segunda División.  FC Barcelona and Real Madrid C.F. are the most prominent but other teams have large followings including Valencia CF, Atlético Madrid, Athletic Bilbao, and two Sevilla teams, Real Betis and Sevilla FC. 

As with the final 2012/2013 standings, the top 3 teams at this point in the season are Barcelona, Real Madrid and Atlético Madrid, followed by Villareal, a team not even in the Primera División last season.  We have placed a large map of Spain on our wall and the names, locales, and logos of each of the 20 Primera División La Liga teams are highlighted, as are our paths of travel to date.

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Isabella’s

There is a nice Italian restaurant a few blocks from us in our Turó Park neighborhood, Isabella’s, where we have been a couple of times.  The pizza is tasty and the pasta delicious and spicy in at least one instance; this is important to note because the food in Spain is never spicy, unfortunately for those of us who like a little kick.  The “Penne a la arrabiata con oliva negra” offered that necessary amount of fresh pepper to make you at least think about lifting your wine or water glass after every bite.  Our friends enjoyed the “Tagliata de ternera con parmesano”, which I will try next time. The salads are also satisfying (both the Burrata and Cesar) and the Gazpacho is the smooth textured type with good flavor and cool and refreshing; if you are one of those who likes gazpacho in concept but not the lumpiness, this is for you.

Now, about our waiter, Marco.  He is from Milan but here with his wife, who is Spanish, and young child.  When learning that we were from the U.S., he commented that “you have my favorite sport in America, wrestling…10 years ago I saw Stone Cold Steve Austin in Roma.”  He could not have been more excited to talk about WWF and informed us that, “my dream and my brother’s dream is for us to come to America and see wrestling.”  (I’m guessing it is not his wife’s dream, at least the nature of the dream.)  But Marco was worried that time would run out before he could make the trip, and sadly cautioned, “the Undertaker will be finished fighting by then.”

 

La Mercè

Last Tuesday (September 24) was a holiday, La Mercè, and there was no school Monday or Tuesday.  We returned from Madrid Monday evening in time for some of the festivities, which actually began on Friday, September 20.  La Mercè honors one of Barcelona’s patron saints, our Lady of the Mercy.  The festival is all about Catalonia, and this capital city really knows how to celebrate.

On Monday night, we arrived at Plaza Saint Jaume, along with thousands of others to hear some music and watch an amazing light show, really a short movie, projected on the façade of City Hall.  This was followed by the appearance of giant puppets, some more than 4 meters tall, supported by an invisible person underneath a skirt.  We watched the 9:45 p.m. show and puppet parade and then enjoyed a meal; it’s never too late for a family dinner in Barcelona, children everywhere at all hours.

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No good puppet photos, but this is a similar one from the August Bilbao fiesta.

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On Tuesday,  Plaza Saint Jaume was packed again, this time for a midday show that was truly a highlight of our time in Barcelona.  We watched the amazing “castellers”; “castells” is the Catalan word for castles, and castellers are the people who form the human towers that can rise several stories.  Children, wearing helmets for protection, form the top levels, and we felt as if the whole crowd was holding its breath, as the final climbers moved upward.

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Note the banner above the flag, “Atreveix Te A Decidir”, which translates into something like, “Dare to Decide” or “Dare you to Decide”, referring to the movement for Catalan independence.  There certainly is a lot of related hype, be it protests, flags, banners, or simply peaceful support stations set up around the city where written material and verbal guidance are offered that highlight the cause.

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